DATE: Edwardian, c.1910
A stunning antique 2 carat diamond cluster ring dating from the Edwardian era, circa 1910. It's set with 13 superb old mine cut diamonds with excellent colour (F/G) and totalling just over 2 carats. The stones rest in platinum claw mounts, and the band is crafted in warm 18k gold with subtle pinched shoulders focusing attention on the head.
Old mine cut diamonds were cut by hand and measured by eye, before the invention of electric light, making each one distinctive and unique. The name has had different meaning over the ages, it came into common use towards the end of the 19th century when global production began to shift from the "old mines" in Brazil and India, to newly discovered mines in South Africa. It first referred simply to any cushion shape "brilliant" cut diamond mined in India or Brazil (literally the old mines), but eventually evolved to include stones coming out of the African mines and cut in the old style cushion shape.
The cut falls into the "brilliant" category (as opposed to rose, table, emerald, etc.) and many people interested in antiques prize them above precision cut modern brilliants. Mainly on account of their handmade imperfection, as it brings character and charm to the stones - particularly, I think, when presented in a cluster ring such as this. The cut was perfected during the 17th century, and rose to prominence thought the 18th and 19th centuries; its key features include the squarish "cushion" shape, 58 facets, a relatively small table, high crown, and large open culet. The latter features result in these stones often being described as "chunky" compared with their modern brilliant counterparts. Visual characteristics displayed by old miners include a unique contrast pattern (the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the stone) and strong fire (the presence of rainbow colours) on account of the relatively large facets.
STONES
Old Mine Cut Diamonds
Total weight approx. 2.02ct - Colour F/G - Clarity SI1-SI2
MEASUREMENTS
Head: 16.2 x 12.8mm
Width of band: 1.8mm
WEIGHT
3.8g
MARKS
Stamped 18ct gold
CONDITION
Excellent
